Journeys of Anthony Henday

In 1953 James McGregor published the book Behold the Shining Mountains based on the study of the Journals of Anthony Henday about his initial journey with Cree traders in 1754 as well as McGregor's extensive retracing the route of the journey in the early 1950s. McGregor's observations of the land route compiled with his extensive knowledge of the Fur Trade and Settlement era make this a good introduction to the early days. These maps are from McGregor's book. 

Whole Journey map

Map of whole Journey in 1754

Map of September and October

Map of September and October

October to January 1754

October to January 31 1754

Buffalo Lake Map

Buffalo Lake Map

Map back to the Saskatchewan River 1754

Map back to the Saskatchewan River 1754

Here is MacGregor's text from Saddle Lake to the Border:

The Saddle Hills are also on the north side of the river. They are made up largely of sand and have a curious geological history. In remote ages the prevailing winds' were from the west, and they blew the sand into large dunes which were the usual shape, having a long, gradual slope on the windward side, with a quick drop on the lee side, fol­lowed by another duplicate dune further down wind. Then.

who can say for what reason, the prevailing winds reversed and blew the second dune back west, remodelling its form­erly steep east side by picking up the sand, blowing it over the top and dropping it abruptly into the hollow between the two dunes. Before the process had been completed the drifting stopped. The result is the hill with the unfilled saddle.

Around Saddle Lake is a large Cree Indian Reserve, for this was an area much frequented by the Indians, be­ cause, as we have said, it was the gateway to the water route stretching far north towards Lac La Biche. If you follow Saddlelake Creek, it will take you to Saddle Lake and then on to Cache Lake and Bonnie Lake near Vilna.

Cache Lake was a favourite camping spot of the Indians and it gets its name from the fact that it was a point at which they frequently made a cache of provisions. From there a short portage will carry you to the shiny sands of Garner Lake, that lovely little resort north of Spedden, and also to Boyne Lake. From here there are connections to Goodfish and Whitefish Lakes. Whitefish Creek will take you to the Amisk River, one of the upper branches of Beaver River. One of the oldest white man’s trails is up this chain of lakes from Saddle Lake to Lac La Biche. So, here again at Saddlelake Creek, you are on one of the waterways reaching back into the northern hinterland of jackpine, spruce and lonely lakes, of moose and elk and deer.

One of the early Wesleyan missionary Henry B. Steinhaur, was quick to recognize the importance of this old canoe route, when, ninety-nine years ago he came out from the East and camped near the mouth of Saddlelake Creek, The life and times of Henry B. Steinhaur will some­ day make a great story when in the future someone gets around to write it. Very briefly, it is this: Steinhaur was a  full-blooded Indian, who, as a waif, had been picked up by the Reverend Mr. Case, who educated him for the ministry. He turned out to be a good scholar, and, after his ordination, came out to Whitefish Lake to minister there to his people till his death in 1885.

But we must go on. Ten more miles downstream from the mouth of Saddlelake Creek will bring us to the Brosseau bridge, where the Duvernay Chemical Plant takes water from our river, chemicals from its salt well and gas from other wells nearby, and with the magic of our age produces some of the chemicals needed by modern industry. Here, in 1865, on the banks of the Saskatchewan, Father La­ combe worked his magic. Here he established a mission, and here he converted and cared for Cree and Blackfoot alike, and here he battled the onslaught of smallpox

amongst his friends. For this country, too, is an important crossroads in the old travel routes of the continent, and that is why he started his mission here. Not only was it easy of access to all the Crees of the north, but a short portage put it within reach of all the canoe Indians on the Ver­milion River. This stream rises far south near Viking and Holden, swings up through Vegreville and Two Hills and the Chain of Lakes before switching to the south again to wander down to Mannville and Vermilion.

But let us return to Henday and his friends. On the third day, April 30th, the party travelled to the mouth of Saddlelake Creek and here he met Attickasish, his guide, and a number of other natives who were making canoes to go downstream. These Crees would be those living in the lake country around Goodfish and Whitefish Lakes. This would be the natural point at which they would reach

the Saskatchewan.

On May 1st they paddled another thirty of his miles down the river, “high banks, many Islands and lofty   woods”—a very good description—and here they were joined by twenty more canoes. This group would be those Indians who trapped in the area near St. Paul, as well as those along the upper reaches of the Vermilion River, and who made the short portage across from the Vermilion Lakes at what is now Morecambe.

A river with a winding road

Description automatically generated with medium confidence

As they sped along this famous highway of the Crees, they met other bands similar to their own. These, likewise, had come out of their homelands in the forests and now were camping along the river, preparing to go down to the Bay. Some were awaiting the arrival of Henday’s party from upstream. Others were not quite ready- By this time the flotilla consisted of about fifty-five canoes.

From what is now Brosseau, Henday and his Crees sped down the broad river, which swung around its islands and tore away at the buttresses of majestic tree-clad hills whose summits far above were silhouetted against the sky.

During the morning of May 3rd they passed the mouth of Atimoswe Creek, a little upstream from the present Elk Point bridge. This is the Cree word for dog rump, but why it should be so called is another one of the stories which has not come down to us.

Next Henday’s canoe carried him past Moosehills Creek at Mooswa, where the Lindberg Salt Plant is today working its alchemy. Here is another creek giving access to the north country. It is the stream which you cross on the high­ way from Elk Point to Lindberg and it makes this such a charming drive with its bare hills on one side, its sandy hills covered with jackpine and birch on the other, and

its sparkling little lakes. This creek reaches only fifteen miles back, but a short portage over the height of land puts one on Kehiwin Creek and Lake, which flows north around  the Moose Hills and down to Moose Lake’ and thence by its outlet to the Beaver River, with all its possibility of access to the north country. Kehiwin Creek was named after Kehiwin, a chief of the Crees. Translated it means “Eagle”.

He had a long and distinguished history as a hero of many fights with the Blackfeet. With the coming of the mission­aries, he became known as a good Christian, respected by the Hudson’s Bay factor, and liked by the few whites in the country.

Ten miles further downstream would bring Henday past the mouth of Frog Creek. To him it would be just another creek coming in from the north, but 131 years later* it came to be a place of dread to Theresa Gowanlock and Theresa Delaney. Here, during the Frog Lake Massacre of 1885, their husbands were murdered, and for two months they were captives of the Crees in the forests and swamps north of Frog Lake.

In a few more miles Henday would reach the mouth of the Vermilion River. Here, some fifty years later, one of Alberta’s early trading posts was built- On the bench on the north side of the river and east of the ferry crossing lie the remains of these two old posts which played a large part in the early history of Alberta. The next day Henday crossed the future boundary line between Alberta and Saskatchewan. At this point he once more began to get out to more open country. Soon the park-like hillsides of the Fort Pitt country came in sight. On May 4th Henday says they killed four waskesev and two buffalo.